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I was delighted to discover that the south Indian blend podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves two people

400g firm potatoes, cut into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Skewer the components on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.